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Camaro replacement vinyl top molding clip kit. Complete as shown. This kit replaces the easy clips and palnuts. 1967 1968: $10.95. 1969 Camaro Vinyl Top Molding Installation Clip Kit OE Quality! (EXT-1331A) Camaro vinyl top molding clip kit. Complete as shown. Includes hard to find studded retainer and special clips.
Written by Finn McCuhil; Updated December 19, 2018Related Articles
- 1 Install a Cove Base in the Garage
- 2 Apply Cove Molding in a Bathroom
- 3 Do an Exterior Corner With a Vinyl Baseboard
- 4 Install Vinyl Base Cove Molding with Adhesive
Vinyl baseboard molding works well for commercial applications or high-traffic areas in your home. It is scratch- and scuff-resistant and, best of all, you don't have to be a carpenter to install it. With just a few simple tools you can protect the bottom of your walls and add a finishing touch to any room. The only manual skill necessary is making accurate corner cuts.
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Straight Walls
How To Install Vinyl Top Trim Clips In Imovie
- Butt the free end of the molding against the inside corner or door frame on one end of the wall. Unroll enough molding to reach the next door frame or inside corner.
- Flip the molding face down on the floor in front of the wall. The ridged backside of the vinyl should be facing up with the bottom curved edge closest to the wall at this point.
- Cut the molding slightly longer than the actual distance between the two end points. Place a piece of scrap wood underneath the molding to prevent damage to the floor while making the cut. Position the square on top of the molding to use as a guide. Draw the utility knife along the edge of the square, firmly pressing into the wood to make a straight cut.
- Insert a tube of wall base adhesive into the caulk gun. Cut the tip off the end of the adhesive tube with a utility knife, pierce the tube's inner seal with a stiff piece of wire and attach the adhesive spreading nozzle to the end of the tube. The spreading nozzle should be slightly narrower than the width of the molding.
- Squeeze the caulk gun's trigger slowly. Spread a thin, even bead of adhesive along the length of the molding.
- Set the caulk gun aside and return to the starting end of the molding.
- Fit the end of the molding into the corner of the wall against the floor and press firmly in place with the flat of your hand.
- Continue carefully positioning and pressing the molding against the base of the wall, working down the length of the molding until you reach the end of the wall.
- Return to the starting edge and remove any excess adhesive on the walls, floor or molding with a damp cloth.
- Press the ending edge firmly into place and trim to exact length with a utility knife.
Inside Corners
- Place the end of the molding to be matched with the previously installed base face up on a piece of scrap wood.
- Use the square as a guide and make a 45-degree angled cut to remove the curved lip at the bottom of the second piece of base molding that will form the corner. The first, installed piece, should be cut at a straight, 90-degree angle to fit exactly into the corner of the two adjoining wall surfaces. The purpose of removing only the small, curved portion at the bottom of the molding is to prevent the curved ends of the two sections of molding from overlapping and creating a stacked effect where they join on the floor. With a successful fit, both pieces fit flush with the wall, with no apparent gap at the junction of the two walls and floor.
- Follow the instructions in the first section to cut and attach the molding to the wall.
Outside Corners
- Unroll enough molding to wrap completely around the outside corner. If possible, the section of molding should be long enough to provide continuous coverage from one inside corner or door edge to another.
- Position the starting edge of the molding. Fit against the wall without adhesive until you reach the outside corner. Wrap the molding around the outside corner and press it firmly in position. Mark the top and bottom of the outside corner with a marker or pencil.
- Pull the molding away from the wall. Use a carpenter's square to mark a straight line from top to bottom on the back side of the molding.
- Make a sharp fold in the molding. Place the face sides together to expose the ridged back with the marked line at the peak of the fold.
- Shave off about half the thickness of the material from the back side of the molding at the fold with a utility knife. Try doing this with scrap material first to get a feel for the process. Material must be removed evenly along the width of the molding for best results. Removing material from the back side of the molding allows it to fit closely around the outside edges and promotes better adhesion.
- Vinyl baseboard molding
- Scrap wood
- Carpenter's square
- Utility knife
- Wall base adhesive
- Caulk gun
- Adhesive spreading nozzle
- Damp rags
- Pencil or marker
Things You Will Need
Tip
Practice cutting inside and outside corners before you begin installation. This job goes much faster when you are comfortable with the corner-cutting process.
Warning
Clean excess adhesive with a damp cloth as quickly as possible. Dried adhesive can be extremely difficult to remove without damaging walls or surrounding surfaces.
References (2)
About the Author
Finn McCuhil is a freelance writer based in Northern Michigan. He worked as a reporter and columnist in South Florida before becoming fascinated with computers. After studying programming at University of South Florida, he spent more than 20 years heading up IT departments at three tier-one automotive suppliers. He now builds wooden boats in the north woods.
Cite this Article Choose Citation Style
McCuhil, Finn. 'How to Install Vinyl Baseboard Molding.' Home Guides | SF Gate, http://homeguides.sfgate.com/install-vinyl-baseboard-molding-36601.html. 19 December 2018.
McCuhil, Finn. (2018, December 19). How to Install Vinyl Baseboard Molding. Home Guides | SF Gate. Retrieved from http://homeguides.sfgate.com/install-vinyl-baseboard-molding-36601.html
McCuhil, Finn. 'How to Install Vinyl Baseboard Molding' last modified December 19, 2018. http://homeguides.sfgate.com/install-vinyl-baseboard-molding-36601.html
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Can I repair a corner without taking off my vinyl siding?
Q: My house has vinyl siding, and now a corner board is damaged. Can it be repaired without taking off the siding?
—Steve Norwood, Greer, S.C
A: —Steve Norwood, Greer, S.C
How To Install Vinyl Top Trim Clip Art
Tom Silva replies: You can't replace vinyl corner trim without removing a bunch of siding, so here's how I'd make the repair.
Get a new corner piece of trim that matches the damaged one and, using tin snips, cut out a section that extends at least 2 inches above and below the damage. Use a utility knife to trim off the nailing flanges on both sides of the replacement piece. Lightly sand the underside of the patch and the corresponding surfaces of the damaged corner, then glue the patch on with polyurethane construction adhesive. Hold it in place with painter's tape. I'd also run a few strips of painter's tape below the patch to catch glue drips. Once the glue sets, you can take off all the tape.
If you don't want a patch to show, you can glue a full-length piece over the entire corner. Just get a helper and use lots of tape because it will want to slide.
Get a new corner piece of trim that matches the damaged one and, using tin snips, cut out a section that extends at least 2 inches above and below the damage. Use a utility knife to trim off the nailing flanges on both sides of the replacement piece. Lightly sand the underside of the patch and the corresponding surfaces of the damaged corner, then glue the patch on with polyurethane construction adhesive. Hold it in place with painter's tape. I'd also run a few strips of painter's tape below the patch to catch glue drips. Once the glue sets, you can take off all the tape.
If you don't want a patch to show, you can glue a full-length piece over the entire corner. Just get a helper and use lots of tape because it will want to slide.